One of the most amazing large-flowered tub cubanola dominicanica fully justifies the status of a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bell-shaped flowers, cubanola is a fragrant star with a difficult character. It requires special conditions of maintenance. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior and have enough space for this beauty, a better (and more chocolate) candidate for the role of an indoor giant cannot be found.
The Big Confusion with Portlandia-Cubanols
Belonging to the category of indoor giants Dominican Cubanola (Cubanola domingengsis) remains little known to most gardeners. Due to its similar appearance (and cultivation techniques), this plant is often confused with Portlandia grandiflora (Portlandia grandiflora). The confusion began at the dawn of the 20th century, when this unique plant was discovered and catalogued as one of the Portlandias.
Both plants are often sold in exotic shops and listed in indoor plant catalogs, confusing them with each other, and such confusion even reigns in seed collections. There is no big mistake in using the name “portlandia” in relation to cubanolas: one of the related species of large-flowered portlandia – dominican, was reclassified as cubanolas and “portlandia dominican” is a synonym for the name cubanolas dominicana.
Scientists have long recognized Cubanola and Portlandia as completely independent plants – unique species from two genera of the same name in one family Rubiaceae (rubiaceae). The leaves of both plants are oval and dark. Both Cubanola and Portlandia are considered the best “chocolate” plants, and only collectors of both can identify the plants by their aroma.
But it is not so difficult to distinguish giant beautifully flowering stars with large bell-shaped flowers. Portlandias have a dense, thick crown, most often amenable to formation, and bells – with a narrow tube, widening downwards, snow-white and five-petaled, hanging in bunches.
The branches of the cubanola are thin and long, they are rarely formed, and the flowers are light green-cream, with a cylindrical, round, massive and long tube, fused petals-corollas, longer and not so graceful. Both plants are easily recognized against the background of any exotic and each other: the snow-white elegance of portlandias is easy to distinguish from the salad “solidity” of cubanola.
If there is any plant to compare Cubanola to, it is Brugmansia. Its somewhat rough, massive bells do indeed resemble this intoxicating plant, albeit only distantly.
The popular name of this unique giant is creole bell (Creole Bell) – is as suitable as possible for a special plant, as is the affectionate nickname “lily tree”.
Cubanola is a giant plant with super-large flowers.
The status of an exclusive miracle of this island plant only emphasizes its uniqueness. But, unlike many of its relatives, cubanola does not belong to the endangered species. Cubanolas were previously considered only as endemic to the Dominican Republic, but individual species are also found in Cuba and Jamaica. Cubanola has spread so much that it has become one of the most “common” plants for the flora of Thailand.
In the wild, this lover of limestone soil creates stunningly beautiful landscapes, but when grown as an ornamental plant – both in tropical soil and in containers in regions with harsh winters – cubanola fully reveals its unique beauty and gigantic size.
One of the unique features of cubanola is the integrity and harmony of its appearance. It looks great not only because of its unique flowering, but also because of its large foliage that perfectly matches it, forming an elegant, elegant crown.
Maximum sizes of 4 m are typical only for cubanolas growing in open soil. Container specimens are usually limited to 1-2 m, but in fact the size of the plant depends on the conditions of maintenance and care.
Cubanolas are rarely shaped, giving them the opportunity to reveal their natural beauty. The slow growth of Cubanolas will pleasantly surprise those who are afraid of plants that grow too much: this exotic plant only adds a few centimeters per year, and it takes decades to reach its true size.
Cubanolas produce shoots that are not very densely branched, rather thin and surprisingly strong and flexible. They can develop both as a bush and as a compact, small tree with a thin trunk and a spreading, untidy crown.
Oval at the base and pointed at the tip, broadly lanceolate, large leaves of cubanola with an exemplary leathery texture attract the eye with a dark, rich, cold-green, but quite light color with a light matte bluish-silver coating.
With a length of up to 12 cm in width, the leaves can reach almost 6 cm. Plants can keep their leaves for the winter, provided that the temperature values are limited, or completely shed them. Metamorphoses of the leaves, with a change in the usual dark green color to a reddish-brick color, precede their fall, but at this time the bushes look amazingly elegant.
Flowering and fruiting of cubanola
Cubanola Dominicana is one of the rarest stars in the category of beautifully flowering large-sized exotics. The flowering of Cubanola is famous for many unique features – one of the largest flower sizes, a unique aroma and exceptional coloring, which is rightly compared to melon shades.
Tubular, original, amazingly large (up to 20 cm), drooping strictly downwards, with five almost fused petals of a flat bend and a long, wide, cylindrical-smooth “ribbed” tube, the flowers of cubanola do not resemble real bells. They slightly expand at the ends: a smooth tube turns into an almost disc-shaped, star-shaped, wavy bend.
Flowers can reach more than 20 cm in length. Due to the fact that the flowers bloom in pairs in the leaf axils, an illusion of a cascade of luxurious pendants hanging from the branches arises. Each flower can last at least a week, they bloom at different times, and the flowering seems endless.
The color range of the Dominican cubanola is limited to light green. The flesh of green melons and the color of carambola – the palette of creamy-light yellow-green flowers usually evokes fruit associations. The size and aroma do not allow the flowers to seem boring, and the shining texture of the petals gives the whole plant a festive outfit.
Depending on conditions and temperature, cubanola may develop darker green colors on the tube ribs, but these do not prevent the plant from remaining “fruity”.
Cubanola-Portlandia is one of the most fragrant indoor plants. The strong but unexpected smell of flowers intensifies at night, as soon as the sun sets, but it does not disappear completely during the day. Shades of hot chocolate in the sweet and tart smell of Cubanola have won many hearts. This is one of the most “delicious” and spicy indoor plants.
Fruiting of cubanola is not that rare, provided there is good lighting. Oval, with blunt ends, long fruits look striking and massive.
Growing conditions for indoor cubanola
It would be difficult to call cubanola a typical houseplant. It is spreading, massive, with thin long branches, requiring considerable space. Lighting and temperature conditions are equally important for it, it does not like sudden temperature changes, but responds gratefully to stable conditions.
Lighting and placement
The light-loving cubanola is a very specific plant. Despite the fact that the plant blooms more abundantly the brighter the lighting, cubanola does not like the midday sun, which always has a negative effect not only on the flowers, but also on the greenery. To achieve a brighter appearance, including larger flowers from this plant, it is worth placing cubanola in bright but diffused lighting with possible direct rays only in the morning and evening.
Cubanolas require a lot of space at a respectable age. But they grow so slowly that they remain compact enough for decades to be placed on a windowsill. The plants look best in solo groups and when placed on the floor, but their crown looks thickest when displayed in groups with other large crops.
Temperature conditions and ventilation
Cubanolas are among the most heat-loving indoor plants. The minimum temperature they can withstand while keeping their foliage is 10 degrees Celsius, and only during the dormant period in winter. If the Portlandia has shed its leaves or you do not want to keep it leafy, the temperature may drop a few degrees lower for a very short period.
Portlandia cubanola can be taken out into the fresh air in summer and used to decorate gardens or terraces with bushes. They also feel great on balconies. But when taking them out into the open air, you need to carefully monitor the night temperatures and choose protected, warm areas. Cold wind and drafts are very dangerous for this beauty.
This crop does not like sudden temperature changes, and can react to contrasting hypothermia not only by shedding leaves, but also by dying off shoots. However, the plant recovers well with proper care the following year.
Caring for cubanola at home
The Dominican Cubanola does not require extremely complex care. But it must be systematic and thorough. The plant does not tolerate problems with watering, loves high air humidity, and fertilizing must be carried out strictly according to the rules.
Watering and air humidity
Cubanolas prefer regular watering that maintains stable humidity, allowing only the top of the substrate in the pots to dry out. Watering is done with soft water, the temperature of which should be a few degrees higher than room temperature.
During the dormant period, watering is reduced in accordance with the condition of the plant, the decrease in the rate of moisture use and temperatures. The soil is dried approximately twice as much as in the summer, avoiding both drying out and over-wetting.
Cubanolas prefer to grow in high humidity, but they are not plants that cannot be grown without humidifiers. They are quite content with warm water spraying, which can be done several times a day in the summer. But if they are placed in the company of other tropical plants, they will feel great with both home-made and industrial humidifiers.
Top dressing and fertilizer composition
Like most flowering plants, cubanola prefers fertilizing only during the period of active growth and flowering. They are carried out with the usual frequency – once every 1 weeks, with a standard dosage of liquid fertilizers. Foliar fertilizing and long-acting fertilizers are unacceptable for cubanola.
The plant prefers universal complex fertilizers, which can be replaced with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers during the budding period.
Trimming and shaping cubanola
Unlike Portlandia grandiflora, Cubanola dominicana is a very changeable plant that grows “by itself”. It is difficult to shape: depending on the location and conditions, Cubanola itself takes the form of a densely branched bush or a neat tree with age. And no pruning affects this shape.
Shortening of overly long branches and sanitary pruning of damaged, dry, thinned, weak branches are the only measures it needs.
Transplantation, containers and substrate
This exotic plant belongs to indoor plants that prefer to be replanted on demand. Even at a very young age, Cubanola is replanted into new containers only when the roots appear from the drainage holes. But the top layer of soil should be renewed annually.
Cubanolas prefer to be replanted in early spring. The plants develop better in ceramic containers, but the only mandatory condition is height, slightly larger than width and the presence of several drainage holes. Containers are increased by 5-6 cm for adult Cubanolas and by 2-3 cm for young plants.
Cubanolas cannot develop normally in heavy, compacted soil mixtures. The choice of substrate for them must be done carefully and, unlike many large indoor tubs, simple garden soil will not suit them. A light, loosened soil mixture that does not compact over time when watered, and that allows not only water but also air to pass through well is a guarantee of the longevity of cubanolas.
It is advisable to add perlite or other loosening additives to the substrate. Cubanols develop best in medium-alkaline soil with a pH of about 7,5, but they can also develop normally in any slightly alkaline or neutral soil.
When planting, drainage is placed at the bottom of the container to a height of about a third of the height of the pot, and if the container is very large – the maximum possible (at least 10 cm). Cubanolas are not transplanted, but rolled over with a whole lump of earth. The plant does not like transplanting, and any contact with the roots, and especially root trimming, can be destructive.
Diseases, pests and problems in growing cubanola
This plant pleasantly surprises with its resistance to pests and diseases, but only if it is carefully cared for. If hygiene and moisturizing procedures differ from the norm, cubanola becomes vulnerable to mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects.
Powdery mildew and various types of rust and mosaic are not uncommon on cubanolas, especially when they are in the garden. Aphids especially love this plant in the garden. It is very difficult to fight any problems – both diseases and pests – on cubanolas. The measures should be started immediately with the use of insecticides and fungicides.
Reproduction of Cubanola
Cubanola dominicanica is considered one of the most difficult plants for self-propagation. Cuttings and rooting of layers require such a long period of time that not many gardeners have enough patience for them.
Air layers in moss and substrate take several years to take root. The standard method is to wrap the cut shoot along the shoot.
In cubanola, non-lignified apical cuttings are rooted. After treatment with growth stimulants, they are planted under a cap in a light alkaline soil mixture and at a stable temperature of about 23 degrees and stable soil moisture, they are kept for rooting for several months. The rooting percentage is low. Cuttings are planted in individual containers, re-potting only after the previous pot has been mastered, and not annually.
Growing from seeds will not allow you to admire large, spreading bushes for many years. But this does not apply to flowering. The first bells of cubanola-portlandia are capable of releasing already in the second year, which significantly brightens up the wait for the bush to reach its true size and a real “show”.
The seeds lose their germination very quickly and are sown with bottom heating and light soil cover immediately after harvesting. Seedlings should be handled carefully, they are extremely sensitive to dryness and over-wetting of the substrate. Picking and re-picking are carried out in the phase of 2-3 and 5-6 leaves. In the future, containers are changed only when the previous pot is filled with roots.
